It's a bitter irony that "young" and "sun" rhymes when the two are, of course, antithetical. While you might like to frolic all summer long, basking in the heat like a little lizard with no more coverage than the sheen of a low SPF tanning oil, we all know that that does not keep the skin tight and right.  

Obviously increased sun exposure bears the risk of severe pain, discoloration, and even cancer, accelerated aging always wins out when it comes to taking our skin seriously (what can we say? we're vain and we know it). So, is the sun really so bad when it comes to keeping our skin smooth and line-free? 

As it turns out, big time — and it's not just when it comes to your face. By breaking down the collagen in your skin, repeated exposure can lead to premature signs of aging as well as texture concerns. So, if you're gearing up for festival season, beach-going to long hot girl walks, you're going to need to get educated — fast. Read on as our resident aesthetician, Chandra Johnson, answers all your burning questions – pun intended – about suncare, including her drugstore favorites, and what makes a difference to your skin long-term (vape-fiends, I'm sorry in advance). 

We’ve all heard sun exposure accelerates aging, how does that actually work?

So it’s a process called photoaging, which breaks down collagen and fibers that lead to wrinkles, sagging skin, sun spots, broken capillaries, and leathery texture. And it’s not just aging that is worrisome, skin cancer is the most common cancer in the US. So it’s important to schedule a yearly visit with your dermatologist to get a full body skin check. 

What SPF level actually makes a meaningful difference in skin protection? Is it really the higher the better?

So SPF stands for sun protection factor. Look for sunscreens that say broad-spectrum, as it covers both UVA & UVB rays. The number measures the factor for UVB, not UVA rays. UVB rays is talking sunburn; UVA rays means aging. SPF 100 is super misleading because people see that and think they don’t need to reapply. With all sunscreens, you should be reapplying every 2 hours. SPF 50 is better for those with sensitive skin and who are spending more time outside, but SPF 30 is fine for daily use. 

Are there specific ingredients in sunscreen we should look for – or avoid – if anti-aging is the goal?

This is definitely a personal preference, but I like mineral sunscreens to prevent premature aging. Always a pro if a formula has barrier repairing/supporting ingredients like ceramides or hyaluronic acid. CoQ10 can boost cellular energy. 

Can sun damage ever be reversed, or are we mostly managing its appearance?

You can’t technically reverse it entirely, but you can treat the damage that it’s done i.e. fine lines, dark spots (hyperpigmentation), uneven texture via a series of treatments and consistent at-home care. 

What treatments have you found deliver real anti-aging results?

In the treatment room, red light therapy does wonders for fine lines and wrinkles. Nano infusion is also great for smoothing out lines and stimulating collage. Microneedling, peels, and lasers are also great alternatives. There are really so many treatments out there to help to support aging! 

Topical wise, using a retinol, peptides, and SPF every single day. 

How do antioxidants function in preventing or reversing sun damage?

While they can enhance your sunscreen, antioxidants are also great at neutralizing free radicals. Think of it as your first line of defense for your skin cells. Regularly using a topical, such as Vitamin C, can help brighten damage (hyperpigmentation) done to the skin from the sun. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase which is necessary for melanin production aka it curbs your dark spots from forming. Also, antioxidants promote cell turnover which allows the pigmentation to fade faster. 

What are the biggest summer skincare mistakes you see that accelerate aging?

Not reapplying...or wearing sunscreen at all. I recommend a SPF stick or spray to my clients so they can easily reapply throughout the day. Also, for the surprise burn area (your hair part!!), I like Poof Part from Supergoop! 

I’m a fan of using actives at night and keeping the day for antioxidants/hydration. If you’re using a retinol or getting peels, you must must must wear SPF daily. People say oh well I’m not outside or I work at home. If you’re driving or sitting near a window, UV rays are still coming in.

How much is diet involved when it comes to age defense?

I can’t speak to diet, but I will say there are a lot of extrinsic factors that impact the skin. Think smoking/vaping...those effects show up on the skin in the form of dullness, lines, breakouts, etc. 

What are your drug store go-tos for skin protection and anti-aging?

Drug store wise, La Roche Posay is usually one I recommend to clients. Vacation Sunscreen, Sunbum, and Prequel!