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Ask An Esthetician: How Do I Slay Cold-Weather Skincare?
Beatrice Hazlehurst
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Thanksgiving is already upon us is (frankly, kind of triggering?), which also signals the arrival of winter. While we might appreciate the holiday cheer and copious cups of apple cider, that bitter mistress is known to toll on our skin.
Right now you're thinking — this is a dehydration issue, right? You're just going to double-down on the moisturizer. Alas...if only it were that simple. Winter wreaks havoc for a few reasons. You're right, cold air does hold less moisture (and low humidity causes skin to lose its natural water content faster), but indoor heating further dries out skin. The skin compensates with oil production, while its barrier weakens, leaving it vulnerable to stressors. Like, that super cute cashmere scarf, AKA a haven for bacteria.
Thankfully, we have someone who can help. Los Angeles-based certified esthetician Chandra Johnson (of Just Butter skin and popular facial spa Heyday), weighed in with real, actionable tips on how to keep your skin fighting fit when temperatures drop. So you can see out the season fresh-faced and eliciting questions like, why so dewy?!
How does cold weather actually affect the skin barrier, and what are the most common winter skin issues you see?
In the winter, most of my clients have dry, tight, and red complexions if they aren't taking care of their skin. Lots of dead skin build-up.
What are the key differences between dry skin and a damaged moisture barrier — and how can someone tell which they’re dealing with?
Dry skin is a skin type, unlike a damaged moisture barrier, or dehydration (or what we call TEWL - transepidermal water loss). Usually, you can have an esthetician tell you what your skin type is, but it has to do with pore size. So if someone has hard to see pores, flaking, lines are more noticeable, that's dry skin. A good way to test at home is wash your face, wait 30-60 minutes. Is your skin shiny all over or dry and flaky? Then notice where it is–is it all over, just the t-zone? If it feels balanced and not overly tight and dry then you are probably a normal skin type.
Someone can have dehydrated skin even if they are oily skin type. If your skin feels dull, tight, and rough, that's usually dehydration. A good test is to pinch your skin between your fingers and if your skin returns to normal pretty quickly, you're hydrated/your skin is more elastic. If the skin is slower to return to normal, then you probably have some loss of elasticity and are dehydrated.
Is there an optimal winter skincare routine that differs from the rest of the year?
Yes! Opt for creamy cleansers instead of gel ones, more hydrating products, richer creams and sunscreens. This is a great time to add in a hydrating essence or serum if you are not already. Occlusives and balms, as well. I like to use Naturopathica's Gotu Kola balm in my treatment room to help with redness/irritation. Some great ingredients during the winter: ectoine, centella asiatica, squalane, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and propolis and/or honey.
What ingredients should people prioritize in colder months, and which should they cut back on or avoid?
It's important to stay consistent with exfoliating. Because of dryer temps, our dead skin is building up more. Prioritize hydrating products!
How often should people exfoliate in the winter — and what type of exfoliation is safest?
Those with active acne should avoid physical exfoliation in general. I like a low and slow approach to exfoliation. Always test patch under your ear to make sure it's not irritating, then try 1 night, and eventually work your way up to 2-3 nights. Honestly, I like a combo of enzymes + physical exfoliation to really get the dead skin off.
What are your thoughts on slugging during winter?
I LOVE slugging. I was going to suggest that people do it during the winter months, especially to lock in hydration and prevent water loss.
Does drinking more water actually help dry winter skin, or is that a myth?
Well, drinking more water and staying hydrated is so important to hydrate the body overall. I think people forget that the skin is our largest organ! It doesn't necessarily hydrate the skin's outer layer.
Should people stop using retinol or acids when their skin feels dry or tight in winter?
If there's any irritation, yes, but I ask my clients more specific questions about what is going on. Are you purging? How long have you been on the retinol? Are you having a reaction? I would suggest doing a moisture sandwich when you are using retinol, or harsher actives. So do a layer of moisturizer, then your retinol, then another layer of moisturizer. When you are exfoliating, you can add a hydrating serum or essence before to add a little bit of a barrier.
Does indoor heating age the skin? If so, how can we counteract that?
Not necessarily, but indoor heating definitely dries out the skin and can irritate it, especially those who have sensitive skin. So glad you asked this because I was going to suggest that people get a humidifier during the winter months! TBH I run mine almost all year long being in a very dry climate.
Are hydrating mists actually helpful or just a short-term fix?
Helpful if you are using them properly. Spray them on your face, then add a humectant like hyaluronic acid to draw moisture from the air, the deeper layers of skin, or other skincare products. Hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water! Like anything, consistency is key here.
How do you adjust your own skincare routine when the temperature drops?
I make sure I am regularly exfoliating, switch my moisturizer to a thicker one, and I also add a moisturizer before my SPF. In the summer, I sometimes skip a moisturizer because my sunscreen is nourishing enough. Running my humidifier, getting peels, and focusing on hydration as much as possible i.e. using a milky essence and soothing toner with ingredients like centella asiatica.
Do certain fabrics (like wool scarves) make irritation worse?
They can! Especially if you have sensitive skin and are sensitive to wool in particular. Those who are more acne-prone should watch abrasive fabrics as well, and instead opt for cotton. You can also add an occlusive here to add a little barrier between your skin and the fabric. When I lived in New York, I would do that before I went out the door! Definitely add a pimple patch on any breakouts so you don't irritate the area more.
How do you adjust your own skincare routine when the temperature drops?
I make sure I am regularly exfoliating, switch my moisturizer to a thicker one, and I also add a moisturizer before my SPF. In the summer, I sometimes skip a moisturizer because my sunscreen is nourishing enough. Running my humidifier, getting peels, and focusing on hydration as much as possible i.e. using a milky essence and soothing toner with ingredients like centella asiatica.
Do certain fabrics (like wool scarves) make irritation worse?
They can! Especially if you have sensitive skin and are sensitive to wool in particular. Those who are more acne-prone should watch abrasive fabrics as well, and instead opt for cotton. You can also add an occlusive here to add a little barrier between your skin and the fabric. When I lived in New York, I would do that before I went out the door! Definitely add a pimple patch on any breakouts so you don't irritate the area more.
What small, easy changes make the biggest difference (shower habits or nighttime routines)?
Making adjustments to your routine, getting a humidifier, trying not to shower in extreme heat (always tbh), and also nourishing your body from the inside out. So many extrinsic play a HUGE role. Say for example someone smokes or vapes, but they're like why is my skin not improving? You may need to assess habits like that–even diet. Rest is so important, and starting the day with lemon water to warm your insides.
How can travelers or people moving between extreme temps protect their skin barrier?
Don't over-exfoliate, using lots of hydrating products, and I especially like to use hydrating masks or sleeping packs as they call them in K-beauty. They're like an overnight moisturizing mask! I advise clients to use something like Dr. Loretta's Tightening Detox Mask before traveling, or I love those Biodance Collagen Masks for travel! I always do pre and post travel–never in flight because bacteria!
What’s the most winter skincare product or trend right now, what’s underrated?
Honestly, a humidifier!
How do you feel about layering multiple moisturizers or oils in the winter?
I like to layer a moisturizer first, then an oil. It's a nice way to get an extra boost of hydration. I usually do that if I Gua Sha in the morning or at night. Your moisturizer should be doing the heavy lifting though–you shouldn't need to add multiple layers of different moisturizers on to feel a difference. If your skin is drinking up the product, that moisturizer might be too light for you. Try something a bit richer.
What’s one professional treatment that gives the most benefit in colder months?
10000% a peel! It's peel season, baby! This is the ideal time because we aren't sweating as much and get more overcast days. If you are getting a peel, you should be diligent about wearing sunscreen and staying out of the sun. Avoid sweating for 24 hours. Peels are so lovely because you can get a few treatments, two weeks apart.
BONUS TIP: Spray hypochlorous acid on the inside of your hats and scarves to help kill bacteria. Also, change your pillowcase regularly, and try to sleep on a fresh side each night. And lastly, one pesky culprit of breakouts–your glasses. Use an alcohol wipe anywhere the glasses touch your skin.
You can book a facial directly with Chandra or at Heyday's Los Angeles locations.
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